Curls and Summer

 HAIR Gossip

The summer heat provides the perfect weather for lounging by the pool, but it can also wreak havoc on your curly hair. Our hair is exposed to all sorts of elements during the summer: chlorine, UV rays and salt water, not to mention the hair’s worst enemy—humidity.

So what can you do to protect your hair from these elements?  Curly hair Guru Anna Craig, CurlStylist writer and owner of Trashy Roots Salon in Round Rock, Texas, offers these curly hair care tips for summertime.

Swimming

The sun and the chlorine from the swimming pool create dry, thirsty curls by stripping the hair of its natural oils. All of the chemicals in your neighborhood pool have a negative effect on your hair—especially if it is chemically treated or colored. If your hair is blond or light brown, the chlorine can even turn your hair green!

“We have some little girls come into the salon from the swim team whose hair is dried from all the chlorine,” says Craig.

Before and After You Swim

Before swimming, wet your hair and condition it. Your hair will absorb the conditioner and prevent chlorine from being absorbed into the hair shaft.

Cover your head. If you’re an athletic swimmer, or if you plan to swim every day this summer, protect your hair with a swim cap. It’s unhealthy to wash your hair every single day, so just avoid the process by covering your head.

If your hair feels extra sticky after a dip in the pool, Craig recommends giving your curls a beer rinse to wash out all the chlorine. The malt and hops from the beer are known to repair damaged hair.

Use a leave-in conditioner before or after your dip in the pool. Moisture is the key to protecting your curls from the drying effects of chlorine, so help your curls retain the moisture by utilizing a leave-in.

Shower Tips for Post-Pool Hair

Wash your hair right away. Don’t wait until the next day. Craig recommends washing your hair as soon as possible to prevent chlorine from staying in your curls.

Do NOT use clarifying shampoo. According to Craig, clarifying shampoo has a tendency to strip your curls of everything, including those natural oils that curls need in the summer. Clarifying shampoos will simply result in drier, frizzy locks.

Use a regular moisturizing or hydrating shampoo. In the summer, your hair needs all the moisture it can get. Craig recommends investing in hydrating shampoos that will reinvigorate your parched curls.

Shampoo with warm water. When shampooing your hair after a dip in the pool, Craig suggests using warm water to trigger the opening of the pores in order to rinse all that chlorine out. Shampooing with cold water will close the cuticle and trap the chlorine in your hair shaft. However, after shampooing and conditioning, you can finish with a cool water rinse to prevent frizz and enhance shine.

Tips for Summer Styling

“A humid day is a day to go curly, not a day to straighten your hair. You’re kind of fighting it,” says Craig. Too often summer days are humid and hot—a nightmare for freshly styled hair. Craig recommends rocking your natural texture instead of fighting it. “You don’t want to do too much to your hair. If you’re swimming a lot, or going out in the heat too much, you are probably damaging your hair,” says Craig. Her suggestion: keep your curly hair care regimen simple.

Avoid heat as much as possible. With endless UV rays pounding against your hair and skin, it’s beneficial to keep the use of blow outs, hot irons and curling irons to a minimum.

Use a light gel. If your hair is naturally wavy, Craig recommends using a light gel or mousse to get those beach waves. Light gel or mousse will provide enough hold but still allow your waves to flow with the breeze.

Make a conditioner/gel cocktail. Craig urges kinky haired clients to supply their hair with enough moisture this summer. Try making a curly cocktail by combining conditioner and gel. You’ll get the moisture you need from the conditioner plus the hold you need from the gel.

Curly Hair Care Products

Invest in good quality products. There are plenty of product lines available that are designed to protect your hair from the summer elements. Craig and her staff at Trashy Roots use the Milkshake Sun and More line. It provides the hydration and protection that hair needs from UV rays and chlorine.

Don’t forget to deep condition. Craig recommends using deep conditioning treatments twice a week in the summer. If you’re constantly exposed to the sun, or if you frequent the pool, supply your hair with that extra moisture it needs.

Special thanks to Anna Craig for all her advice and tips!

 

Feather Extension Kit

HAIR GOSSIP

Here is a step by step guide on how to apply feather hair extensions if you purchased an extension kit off of Etsy.

Step 1: Take a small secition of hair- I suggest either under a layer and away from the part of your hair or right above the ear.

Step 2: If your kit didn't come with a fancy tool, you can just take a piece of fishing line and loop it. Then place the hair extension bead through both ends (again, if your kit didn't come with beads you can buy them at Sally's). 

Step 3: Pull the section of hair that you selected through the loop.

Step 4: Move the bead up the fishing line and onto the piece of hair.

Step 5: Pull the hair through the bead completely and make sure it stays about a 1/2 from the scalp.

Step 6: Take a cluster of feathers (3 to 5) and make sure every feather makes it into the bead.

Step 7: Once the feathers are in you can trim any of the excess that is sticking out of the top of the bead.

Step 8: Take pliers and squeeze the bead until it is completely closed.

VOILA! You have beautiful feathers in your hair!!!


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These extensions should last 3 to 8 weeks depending on how well you take care of them. To remove the feathers you can pinch the bead with pliers in the other direction to open it and they'll just slide right out.

Facts About Color

HAIR Gossip

 Facts about professional color vs box color

• In the salon we customize color to your specific hair,  every color , every formula is different.  We can control certain tones in your hair such as reds or we can formulate color to cover even the toughest grey
• Box color has a much higher PH level thus being more damaging to hair, it also contains metallic dye which is extremely difficult to remove
• Remember box color can not take your hair into consideration it is strictly a hit or miss
• The frequency of your hair color application varies from client to client.  Hair growth , sun exposure and product usage can all be determining factors
• Damage in professional color is limited because of our ability to formulate

Professional vs. Store Bought Products

HAIR Gossip

Clients are always asking me about store bought vs. professional products. 

Lets clear this up once and for all. 

YES there is a difference between the two and  NO

professional products sold in grocery stores are not legit.

Remember that the most important product you can use on your hair starts with your shampoo. 
To find out more read this article.

Compliment your Complexion

HAIR  Gossip

Ever wonder why some people have a color that just pops? The secret is to match your hair color to your skin tone. While there are a variety of complexions, all will fall into two different skin tone categories- warm or cool.

WARM
Skin

Yellow or gold

Pale peach

Brown w/ pink undertones

Brown w/ gold undertone

Eyes

Warm golden brown

Hazel w/ brown

Blue/green

Green

Hair

Golden blonde

Strawberry blonde

Red

Dark brown w/ red

Dark brown w/ gold

Gray with a golden cast

Typically, if you have one or more colors from each category above, you would fall into the warm category. Hair colors that have a warm overtone such as golden to dark brown, rich warm auburns, and red or golden highlights will compliment your skin tone. You should avoid cool hair colors such as blues, whites, ash, and purples.

By matching a copper blonde hair color on someone with a warm peach and cream complexion, we end up with a hair color that looks natural and blends well with the color of the skin. In most cases, a cool hair color mixed with a warm skin complexion can drain the skin and cause the color to look drab.

COOL

Skin

Pale pink

Pink w/ golden undertones

Olive

Bronze brown

Dark brown

Eyes

Blue

Gray-blue

Hazel

Dark brown

Hair

Deep chocolate brown

Blue-black

Ash

Golden brown

Dark blonde

Salt and pepper gray

White

Usually, when you have one or more colors from each category above, you would fall into the warm category. Hair colors with cool overtones such as ash brown, cool blondes (platinum), blue-blacks and unnatural colors like mahogany, burgundy, and fire engine red will look great with your skin tone.

When we put a cool light brown color on someone the cool complexion really brightens up and we end up with a hair color that suits the skin tone. In most cases, warm hair color mixed with a cool and fair complexion can completely wash you out.

*There are of course some exceptions such as client preference, color contrast, and neutralizing skin and hair tones.

Client preference- If you have a golden skin tone but you really want a deep chocolate hair color then more power to ya sister!!! Forget the color rules. As long as you're happy with the color that is all that matters.

Color contrast- A combination of warm and cool hair colors can be used together in various techniques for a contrast.

Neutralizing skin and hair tones- You can neutralize an unflattering skin tone by using a hair color to compliment it. Just as you would avoid a bright red sweater if you have a lot of pink in your face, warm-tones in your hair will bring out a flush while cool colors can minimize it.

Flatter your Face

HAIR Gossip


Do you ever wonder what hairstyle looks best with your face shape? Well wonder no more. With these helpful tips you will find out exactly what hairtsyles suit your face.

    Oval

The most symmetrical of all face shapes, oval faces are slightly narrower at the jaw line and chin than at the temples, with a gently rounded hairline.

Best hair for you

As one of the most versatile shapes, oval faces can pull off just about any look. Medium length is usually good with oval faces. On the other hand, try something a little shorter that is longer in the front to round everything out. Bangs compliment an oval faces. I usually like to do a slightly longer angled bang or as I call my side swept bangs, "the swoop." Luckily, just about every face shape can pull off a side swept bang.

What to avoid

If you have overly curly hair, you do not want short layers because they tend to get big and all you will see is a fluffy head. In general, oval faces should steer clear of short layers that add height to the top of the head. As they will make the face appear long. Avoid a middle part, they have the tendency to add length to the face as well.

Square

Square shaped faces are known for their strong square jaw lines and hairlines. They are equally broad at the forehead, cheeks, and jaw line.

Best hair for you

Square faces should have one goal when choosing a hairstyle. The shape should round out and play down your strong angular jaw. To achieve this, try adding soft layers around the temples and jaw. This will create more volume and lift around the face to make everything more proportionate. Textured tresses especially wavy or choppy ends work wonders with square faces.

What to avoid

Cuts that further accentuate the boxiness of your square face. For example, one length bobs and blunt bangs will draw attention to the square shape, while layered locks look fabulous.

Diamond

A cross between a heart shape and a dramatic oval, the diamond shaped face is widest at the cheekbones and equally narrow at the forehead and jaw line.

Best hair for you

Diamond shaped faces are unique, extremely distinct and can pull off a variety of looks. Short cuts that might otherwise be overlooked work well with diamond faces. You can go as short as the cheekbones. Longer layered cuts are suitable for a diamond face shape as well.

What to avoid

Since diamond faces typically have sharp, dramatic features, blunt cut edges and straight scissor cuts should be avoided. Stay away from harsh bluntness. I would recommend face framed layers starting around your cheekbones to avoid making your face look super narrow. You might want to razor the ends to soften up your look. Just take the edges and round them as opposed to making them straight across. Accentuate your unique features by steering clear of a heavy bang or wearing your hair too much on your face.

Round

Round faces feature a full looking face with a round chin and hairline, with the widest point being at the cheeks and ears.

Best hair for you

The most common and one of the most desired face shapes is round. With the ability to pull off a range of styles, feel free to experiment with what works for you. Try a bold asymmetric bang for a unique style. While length is negotiable, soft graduated layers are key. A hairstyle that has volume on the top but no fullness on the sides will make the face appear slimmer. Opt for something sleek and straight.

What to avoid

One length blunt cuts that lay at the jaw line spell disaster for round faces, as they emphasize your roundness. Avoid straight across bangs and a shorter hairstyle, it is going to look like you have too much going on in the front of your head.

Heart

Heart shaped faces are broader at the temples and hairline before tapering into a small, delicate chin. This face shape is also known as triangular.

Best hair for you

A truly unique shape with sharp, distinctive features is heart shaped. You want to add a little bit of softness or texture to your look. You do not want to bring a lot of attention to your very dramatic features, like your jaw. Attempt to wear jagged layers, nothing too blunt. Curls, bends, or twists can also provide a necessary distraction for your heart shaped face.

What to avoid

While your versatile mane can be worn long or short, you should avoid blunt cut layers and choppy bangs. I would go with a longer cut or just about an inch higher than the chin. Severe, slicked back looks are a no go, as they will only bring out your sharp features.

*Remember, not every face will fit into one of the categories above. Some may look like a mixture of round and square, and so on. If you have a combination face shape consider yourself lucky. You get the best of both worlds!

Beat the Heat

HAIR Gossip

As an Arizona native, I know how brutal the sizzling summer heat, humidity, pool chemicals, ocean breezes, and salt can be on your luscious locks. Before hitting the lake, beach, or pool don't just focus on your skin, focus on your hair's needs as well.

Here are some summer hair care tips:

1. Lather on conditioner before entering the pool, lake, or ocean. If you fill your hair's cuticle with conditioner, the less likely harsh chemicals will be able to seep into your hair. (My recommendations are Alfaparf Splendore Hydrating Conditioner or Bed Head Some Like It Hot Conditioner).

2. Use a UV protectant spray or serum prior to and during sun exposure. It'll help tame those frizzies and prevent your color from fading. Pack your UV spray or serum in your beach/pool bag and reapply whenever you put more sun block on your body. (I recommend Alfaparf Color Illuminating Crystals with UV Protectant or Redken Color Extend Sun Solar Screen).

3. Use a leave-in conditioner. They help prevent tangles from the wind (when applied before) and help you gently comb out knots (when applied after). (Recommendation: Prive Leave-In Conditioner with Thermal Protectant or Paul Mitchell Awapuii Spray).

4. Rock the wavy beach hair. Summer should be laid back. Let your hair be messy for once. Use Prive Relaxing Gel or Aquage Sea Salt Spray. Scrunch hair with your hands or better yet use a diffuser. You could also gather hair loosely into a ponytail or headband. Which brings us to number.

5. When using elastic bands to tie back your hair, avoid the ones with the metal clasps. The metal catches and breaks your hair.

6. Save yourself pain later and apply sun block to your hair part. Please trust me when I say a burnt scalp is no fun.

7. When all else fails, grab a hat and own it. Guys love it. Well at least my fiancé does.

What's your summertime hair care tip?

*An end of summer MUST DO is a deep cleansing and hydrating treatment. The deep cleansing treatment gets rid of all the build up, impurities, and chlorine you have accumulated over the summer. The hydrating treatment is a deep conditioner that will add tons of much needed moisture and shine to your hair, not to mention it smells phenomenal.